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Update on the 72 TR6 with the broken clutch fork

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RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, TN, USA   USA
Er, should I say, non broken clutch fork. It's been a few months so now's a good time to explain what's been going on. Since changing the clutch master and slave cylinders, the clutch engagement or disengagement only got worse. Thinking I had broken the clutch fork pin, and knowing full well I could not fix it, I had the TR6 hauled to my local favorite shop. Well, the mechanic got the transmission out and gave me a call. I went down and he showed me that the clutch fork and pin were in EXCELLENT condition. In fact, someone had previous modified the pin with a Grade 8 bolt so that will never break. Which left only one possible thing that would be wrong with the clutch. Oh, the disc and plate were in very good condition.
Thrust washers.... Now, this mechanic did not have the right tool to measure the end play then. We tried to measure with a feeler gauge. Got close but still not what we were striving for. So finally after about 2 months of the car in the shop, he gets the right tool to measure the crank play. So, get that measurement and we find that the main bearing caps(I think) are worn. So my mechanic Wes, who's never even seen a Triumph, gets on the phone with Scott Helms and Richard Goode and we order the correct size thrust washers and main bearings. Just got them in the mail today and I took them down to Wes. So, he'll be putting them in this coming week. I have to give KUDO'S to Wes at Homer's Garage in Mountain City. He really is a great mechanic. Learning so quick on cars that he(in his 30's) had never seen, never knew the British workings and design, Wes has done a phenomenal job. I dont have the car back yet, but so far, he's learned a lot and has not thrown anything in the shop yet. winking smiley If I had tried this work, half of the car would have been slung down in the woods by now.
But I've gotten some fresh oil(it had clean, but old, Quaker State or Pennzoil in it), Castrol high mileage, and I'm going to get some new transmission fluid for it also. Now, my question, what is a really good, readily available(O'Reilly's or Auto Zone) transmission oil for the TR6(4 speed)? Any advice the fluid and clutch fluid?
Thanks for being patient with me on the saga of the broken clutch on my TR6. Hopefully, I'll be driving it home before Christmas. smiling smiley

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Ben, First off, lucky to on finding that mechanic.
The transmission uses oil, a 70-90 W with a GL4 rating is the recommended.
Do a search here as there have been many discussion on that subject.
If you can find anything with a GL4 rating, it will also be the same for your rear end. May as well have it changed at the same time.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
Do NOT use a GL5 oil in the transmission! The additives will eat the yellow metals- such as the synchros, and trash it.

Scott

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dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
Ben, while it's out, check the flywheel thickness. It's hard to believe that wear would stop the clutch from working. Make sure the bleed screw is on top of the slave and prop the clutch with a stick against the seat,wait a few hours, then crack the bleed screw and watch the trapped air come out. I did this three times and the clutch is all the way up top.

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, TN, USA   USA
Thanks, Dan. I hadn't thought of doing that with the clutch. I'll pass that along to Wes. We already checked the flywheel. That was one of the first things Wes checked when he found the fork pin was good. He thought it may have been worn thin also as he has seen a fairly new Ford F250 truck have that same issue. But the flywheel is fine. Wes will be checking the slave cylinder much more closely when he puts everything back together.
Thanks again and to all, thanks for the input. smiling smiley

gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
Surprised no one mentioned doing the rear main seal “while you’re in there” smiling smiley I’m sure you’ll be doing the oil pan gasket so consider doing the main seal and the gasket behind it. Unless you know it’s new

You can pick up Sta-lube GL4 Gear oil at NAPAs or at Amazon. Redline also makes good stuff MT-90.

Also, was the input seal done on the gearbox? There are lots of little “while you’re in there” things you can do

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