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Front Trunnion Pivot Bolts

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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
I have been removing all the suspension from the frame and ran into what I have read is a common problem. The trunnion pivot bolt seemed to be rusted in place. Several careful blows with a 3 lb hammer did nothing. BUT.....
I placed the trunnion and lower a-arm in a container of Evaporust(generally available at Advance Auto parts) and left it for 3 days. The bolt slid out with not much issue at all. A few good taps started it moving and it came out fairly easily. The other side is soaking now.
It seems that most people just break out the Sawzall and go to work cutting the bolt into sections..
I just thought I would share my results.

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rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, new york, USA   USA
All I can say is that you got lucky good work

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
David,
I’m a strong believer in Evaporust and keep a 2 gallon tub for soaking rusted parts. I also have the same size container filled with SuperClean which takes just about anything down to bare metal. I use these two solutions to clean, remove paint, and remove all traces of rust prior to refinishing and I can’t say enough good about both of them. The only thing you have to be careful with is aluminum in the SuperClean since it will chemically darken it if you soak too long. I bought a used commercial ss 3 sink setup for the shop and the sinks are big enough to hold around 30 gallons each and I’ll make clear plastic covers for them...they will make great soaking tanks. I’ve soaked heads, blocks, suspensions, seat frames, and all sorts of smaller parts and they come out looking great...I may build something to soak wings and bonnets in or just use a baby pool since you can buy Evaporust in 55 gallon concentrate.
Rut

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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
I keep a couple of plastic bins with Evaporust and SuperClean also. i don't have anything near big enough to put a body panel in but those two products have served me well over the years..
Generally I clean parts in a degreaser and then soak in the Evaporust or Superclean, whichever is needed. This keeps the grease and general gunk out of the Evaporust.

I found a couple of new sill end plates in my boxes of parts and they looked terrible. Apparently they are uncoated steel from TRF. I dropped them in the Evaporust and they came out looking like new. I sprayed them with Self Etching Primer and put them back on the shelf for later.

I had the same issue with some aluminum parts but a quick polish on the wheel and the color came back.

UPDATE:

The passenger side Trunnion Bolt did not come out as easily as the drivers side. I soaked them for a few days in Evaporust but the bolt wouldn't budge. The good news is that when I put a wrench on the bolt it would at least spin which is something it wouldn't do before the soak.
I took the assembly to my Dad who has a 30 ton press. The bolt pressed out without much issue. I feel confident that the Evaporust did it's job and broke loose most of the rust but a press was needed to finish it off.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-03 05:53 AM by dk pony.

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR3B
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
+1 on evaporust. Another trick when a part can't be submerged is to lay paper towels on the surface, soak with evaporust, then put saran wrap over the paper towel to keep it from evaporating. Lift and remoisten with a spray bottle of evaporust every 8 hours or as needed. Great even for vertical body panels.

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