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Lucas wiring saga

Moss Motors
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JFB Joseph Byrd
Dunn, North Carolina, USA   USA
It has been months since I even cranked the tr6. Last week, one problem I finally got around to fixing was the 12V boost to the coil from starter wire broke at the spade. That REALLY does help with cranking. A day or so later, I had a few minutes so I put the battery charger on, gave it a few minutes and fired her up.

While I waited for warm up, I started my preflight checklist. First, look for brake light reflection. negative. Tried turn signals, negative.

So I open trunk to see if I could wiggle something and get them to work. I then noticed some of the “work” done by the shop a couple years back. The turn signal bulb holders were replaced with generic that rattled in the light housing.

So I worked, trying to get a snug fit by rotating. Got it good enough to work but need to readdress before highway. Still no brake light nor turn signal. BUT, the 4 way flashers did work. Left it for another day!

Today, printed out the wiring diagram, got the DMM and prepared to trouble shoot. Fired her up to warm while looking and guess what. Brakes and turn signals worked!

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Sometimes working, sometimes not is hardly better than just not working at all.

The proper bulb holders are available or the OE ones can be easily fixed with a spot of solder to the troublesome ground tag.

Failing that, good quality bulb holders can be had from a modern car and grafted in. The generic universal bulb holders that your FLAPS sell are usually horrible.

Who was the 'mechanic'!

JFB Joseph Byrd
Dunn, North Carolina, USA   USA
I meant to post this in Journal so "the rest of the story" would be available. this TR6 was under shed for decades. I got a local hot rod shop to just get it on the road. the hot rod guy was hard to contact and then skipped town (with my deposit). BUT his shop was taken over by a Low Rider builder. The last guy was great and did a LOT of work on hydrualics, fuel, etc, so I don't know which one did the lights. (doesn't matter). I am thinking the first guy because the correct ones are readily available, and the LR builder like calling Moss ($$$) for parts.

As for the initial cause for not working. my far out guess could be the fuse contacts dirty as I did "finger" them before I started today.
the gas gauge has been dead the whole time. (I am think the sender from when they had the tank out for flush.)
but the other day when I let it warm while tinkering with bases, I seem to recall the temp gauge didn't move.

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glcaines Avatar
glcaines Silver Member Gary Caines
Hiawassee, Georgia, USA   USA
Both the fuel gauge and temp gauge are powered through the gauge voltage stabilizer. On my 73, other circuits are also powered from the same fuse in the fuse box, such as the overdrive solenoid, heater, backup lights and windshield wipers. If none of the others work as well, it is likely the fuse. If everything works except the fuel and temp gauges, it is likely the gauge voltage stabilizer.



Current: 1973 TR6 W/Overdrive

Previous:
1963 TR3B W/Overdrive
1962 TR3A
1961 TR3A
1960 TR3A
1960 TR3A

JFB Joseph Byrd
Dunn, North Carolina, USA   USA
I don't know what cause the original loss of power to the brakes, turn signals and I do believe the temp gauge stayed lowed, BUT now they work. I haven't driven, but I did do another crank the other day and verified the temp came to normal

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