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door handle getting harder to operate

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bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
The LH door handle operation, both inside and out is getting increasingly harder to operate. I've had the door card off recently to replace the glass, and took the opportunity to make sure it was well lubed with white lithium grease, and it seemed to be fine for a good while. Lately it has been getting harder and harder to operate, so I'm wondering if there's something else I should be looking at?

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
Are they harder to operate when you hold the door open ?

bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
that's a good question. I didn't think of that ;-)
No, it seems to operate normally with no resistance. I can 'trigger' the door latch manually and it will release easily, but not when the door is actually shut. What are you thinking?

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
Thinking that the problem is not within the door itself, but rather something concerning the outside latch alignment on the door or striker on the B-pilar....possibly even the frame sagging.

boulderroller Avatar
boulderroller Silver Member Brian Cunningham
Farmington, Connecticut, USA   USA
1973 Triumph TR6 "Liz"
I had a similar situation this past summer, until I finally heard the sound of a metallic object dropping into the door. Took the door card out, and retrieved a threaded bold. Turned out that the bolt is the interface between the door button and the latch mechanism. Threaded the bolt back in, and found the door button worked much easier, and actually unlatched the door. Job done!



1973 TR6 CF4325U
"A" Type OD
Dual Webers

Atl TR6 Avatar
Atl TR6 Bruce W
Braselton, Georgia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1499667 by boulderroller I had a similar situation this past summer, until I finally heard the sound of a metallic object dropping into the door. Took the door card out, and retrieved a threaded bold. Turned out that the bolt is the interface between the door button and the latch mechanism. Threaded the bolt back in, and found the door button worked much easier, and actually unlatched the door. Job done!

Yes...that bolt can come lose...even with the lock nut that can't be seen in picture.



Bruce
1974 base TR6 Emerald Green "Emmy"
(with J-O/D added)


Attachments:
100_3973.jpg    39.1 KB
100_3973.jpg

bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Thanks guys. I took the opportunity to adjust that 'push' bolt when I replaced the door glass, taking some slack out of the mechanism It may be that I took too much slack out? Looks like I'm pulling the door card off again :-(
Man I hate those pins in those winder/door handles!

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boulderroller Avatar
boulderroller Silver Member Brian Cunningham
Farmington, Connecticut, USA   USA
1973 Triumph TR6 "Liz"
Ian,
This fix can be done without removing the winder and inside handle winking smiley



1973 TR6 CF4325U
"A" Type OD
Dual Webers

bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
That's good Brian. I was kinda hoping I could spring the door card enough to reach the handle.

Cheers

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
Seems like if the handle operates normally when the door is open, the problem would not be inside the door..

bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Well, that's what I was thinking, but I'm willing to look at all possibilities. I've noticed the door-side of the latch might be a fraction low, as it scrapes a bit on the B pillar catch. These 2 items don't seem to be adjustable, so I might have to pull the door up a bit at the rear using the hinge bolts behind the kick panel? The door seems to be aligned correctly, but I guess raising it a poofteenth will be imperceptible. That MIGHT help??


Attachments:
latch.jpg    63 KB
latch.jpg

boulderroller Avatar
boulderroller Silver Member Brian Cunningham
Farmington, Connecticut, USA   USA
1973 Triumph TR6 "Liz"
I noticed a scraping on the latch also, BUT, fixing the push bolt ( if that's a word) took care of the door button stiffness, and the scraping of the door catch. I forgot about that issue until you mentioned it, since the door has operated flawlessly since.



1973 TR6 CF4325U
"A" Type OD
Dual Webers

bikeboy Avatar
bikeboy Silver Member Ian F
Lara, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Thanks Brian. I did check the bolt and it's operation, but couldn't find any problems with it. I hit it with some white lithium grease just in case, but it was nice an tight with about a 5mm gap between the head of the bolt and the lever on the latch.

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