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Convertable frame

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badgertr6 Avatar
badgertr6 mike c
manitowoc, wi, USA   USA
I am in the process of replacing my soft top, and I'm at the point where I will blast and repaint the frame. The pictures below are of the leading edge of the frame, the piece that latches to the top of the windshield. I noticed there is considerable flex in this piece where it is riveted to the rest of the frame. You can compare the two pics and see the amount of flex. Is this normal? It seems like it's there to allow that piece to flex and more easily mate with the top of the windshield? It appears to be attached to the rest of the frame with two large rivets, one on either side. Leave alone and just repaint it?

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Mike, there is a bit of flex there, but yours is excessive.
It has a rivet there if I remember correctly. Do a search and you might find where this has been a problem for others and how they solved it.
Poolboy should chime in soon, he is very good at giving a solution on the TR6 and such.
I have one some where, but shipping might be more than you want.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
Poolboy has to admit he don't know much about TR6 top frames, though, Wayne.
My 74 didn't have a top, just the tonneau and it wasn't long after I got the 73 that I removed the top and went with a surrey top rig....but if I had one and it broke I could probably figure out some off the wall solution...I bet Mike can too.

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
WOW, now that was a surprise.
Like you I put a top on in 1996 and it's never been up since I said. "OK, that fits"
I will look tomorrow and check the frames I have.
Sorry Mike, maybe some one else will give you and answer before then.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

A Brit in Bama Avatar
A Brit in Bama Keith Norrie
Eva, Alabama, USA   USA
As previously mentioned, the header bar attaches to the side members by means of fairly substantial rivets. These riveted joints are deliberately not completely rigid, to permit a small amount of lateral movement in the frame. In this case, it appears the joint is excessively loose. It may be possible to peen the rivet with a hammer and dolly to tighten it. The first picture below shows the rivet in question, on the right of the image.

However, In my own recent renovation of my top frame, I elected to remove these rivets - I used a Dremel with a cut-off and grinding attachments to remove the rivet ends, then prised apart the header bar from the sides.

I replaced the rivets with button-head hex screws, in combination with low-profile locknuts - this permits you to adjust the tightness of the joint so that it permits the slight flex I mentioned earlier. I then used the Dremel to cut off the screw thread flush with the nut once tightened. Unfortunately, I didn't appear to take pictures of that particular joint once completed - however, the second picture shows some of the other joints in the frame which I also replaced using these button-head screws and low-profile nuts.

It's certainly not necessary to replace all the joints I did - it's a bunch of work - but, I can tell you the top raises and lowers far more smoothly than it did before.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-07 09:28 PM by A Brit in Bama.


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barcalude Dave B
Baldwinsville, NY, USA   USA
I've seen this on several convertible top frames. Over time, the rivet and frame around the rivet gets deformed. With the frame off the car. I set the frame on the flat part of a vice (or other solid piece) and peen the head of the rivet with a ball peen hammer. Don't over do to the point of splitting the metal, you're just trying to move the metal back to where is was when the rivet was originally installed. A little play is ok, but I try to snug it up to just a little flex. You'll also find that the metal around the rivet is curved or rounded- I use the hammer and vice method to flatten that part out as well. Seems to be a fairly easy fix that should last quite awhile unless your top is overly snug when you try to latch it down. I've had good luck with this method.

ed.h Ed Hollingsworth
Omaha, Nebraska, USA   USA
Mike--

I wondered the same thing--was the front header intentionally loose at the corners to allow some flex, or was it just worn?

In the end, I did just what Keith did. The lock nut will permit leaving some flex, but right now, I have it snugged down

Ed


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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Mike, as above, great solution and I checked the ones I have and all are tight.
The rubber channel under there will need to be taken off and access is easy.
I do have a couple if yours is not worth messing with, but don't worry if the hole is made bigger, just weld it up and drill to size.
Not good pictures but shows the channel.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)


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badgertr6 Avatar
badgertr6 mike c
manitowoc, wi, USA   USA
Thanks all. Excellent suggestions. I like the "replace the rivet with a bolt and lockwasher" idea to give me some adjustment.

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davem Avatar
davem dave m
victoria bc, vancouver island, Canada   CAN
check out "buckeye triumph " site as well
they have a pretty extensive section on replacing soft tops etc

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