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Pushrod Slips of the Rocker

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72TR6onDaRoad Fred C
Cary, NC, USA   USA
Hi All,

New to this forum but I am stumped. The #2 pushrod just decided to slip of the rocker. Fortunately, the car was in the garage so I could stop the engine almost immediately. I took the valve cover off, saw the rod. Loosened up the rocker arm assembly, reset the pushrod, adjusted the valves and restarted. Same thing. The valves didn't seem to be binding during the valve adjustment. The pushrod doesn't seem to be bent. Not sure about the rocker arm assembly. I know the engine was reworked previously, but I don't know to what extent. So, if anyone could help me establish a repair plan, I'd be grateful!

Fred

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dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, New Jersey, USA   USA
Fred, I will assume your doing a proper valve adj., the pedestals are seated and torqued.Check that the rocker is in line with the valve, if not,you'll have to redo the shaft with proper spacers. Also check that the threads on the rocker adj. screw are not stripped. page 124 Bentley manual shows shaft layout. Dan

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA

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tapkaJohnD Avatar
tapkaJohnD John Davies
Lancaster, Lancashire, UK   GBR
Did you check the tappet clearances?
Last time I had this, they were opening up.
John

72TR6onDaRoad Fred C
Cary, NC, USA   USA
I took a look at the alignment of the rockers to the pushrods. That looks good. The pedestals are snug and properly torqued. The adjustment screw is not stripped (would have been nice). I read the 6-pack post. Thanks Dan. Looks like I may have an issue based on overheating. My car has been running hot (say 190 ish) for a while. Thought it was the voltage stabilizer, but not so much. Perhaps I have something going on in the heart of the beast. I think I'll have to pull the head and have someone take a look at it and go from there. Thanks

P.s. I'm sure that I can spell OFF the rocker as opposed to of the rocker.smiling bouncing smiley

glcaines Avatar
glcaines Silver Member Gary Caines
Hiawassee, Georgia, USA   USA
You might want to pull the plugs, remove the valve cover, and turn the engine over slowly while watching the valve train to see what is happening. I vote for a sticking valve. If so, you will indeed need to pull the head.



Current: 1973 TR6 W/Overdrive

Previous:
1963 TR3B W/Overdrive
1962 TR3A
1961 TR3A
1960 TR3A
1960 TR3A

dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, New Jersey, USA   USA
Fred, before you pull the head, let the car idle with the valve cover off and watch each rocker for oil delivery. Make sure all are getting oiled. Dan

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72TR6onDaRoad Fred C
Cary, NC, USA   USA
I'm not sure about the oil delivery to the rocker arms. Could really watch it because the rocker arm would not stay on the pushrod. So, I pulled the head and pooped the valve spring on the #2 valve (1st cylinder intake) and low and behold stuck valve. Looks like its time for a head rebuild. Haven't pulled other springs to see if any other valves are sticking, but I'd guess yes by the burn color of the valves. My mechanic thinks that its best to get a guy who really knows triumphs to do the work. His machine shop guy is trying to retire and may not be available. Does any one have any recommendations? We have machine shops around but I doubt that many have seen a TR6 head recently. Thanks,

Fred

dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, New Jersey, USA   USA
Fred, if you don't have info. on what was done to the engine, when the head is off, you can check the lift on each cam lobe with a dummy push rod and dial indicator. Then you'll know what cam you have and what clearance should be at the valve. I would recomend bronze guides with seals. Dan

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rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, new york, USA   USA
I would check to see if the lifter is stuck you might have a worn journal

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
Believe me, the TR6 head is old school....
If you have a NAPA parts store, give them a call and see who they send you to.

barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
Rather than consider pulling the head, why not just remove the rocker assembly and inspect for wear?

glcaines Avatar
glcaines Silver Member Gary Caines
Hiawassee, Georgia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1477456 by barry s Rather than consider pulling the head, why not just remove the rocker assembly and inspect for wear?

The OP already pulled the head and he found a stuck valve. Post #8.



Current: 1973 TR6 W/Overdrive

Previous:
1963 TR3B W/Overdrive
1962 TR3A
1961 TR3A
1960 TR3A
1960 TR3A

clifish Avatar
clifish Cliff Deger
St. James, NY, USA   USA
If you want to look into having the rocker arm assembly rebuilt - rockerarms.com, they have a pretty good reputation, below was their answer to me on a TR6 set up.

"yes we can rebuild your TR6 core, "Hard chrome plated
shaft, bronze bushings, re-face contact tips, etc."
The price is $234.00 + S/H. and it will take about 1 week after we
receive your core.
Thank you."



74 TR6 - Carbs by POOLBOY
81 Corvette

barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
When I rebuilt my head immediately after purchasing my 6, I replaced everything except the pedestals and pushrods and added an auxiliary oil line to the rocker shaft.

BTW Rockers, shaft and solid spacers were $175; oil kit was $45 and hardened lifters were $190.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-08-12 02:07 PM by barry s.

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