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timing 1973 tr6

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GDL412 Garry Loomis
Granville, NY, USA   USA
what degree do u set idle timing ? could someone explain to me this process? thanks garry

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tirebiter Jeff Garber
Dighton, MA, USA   USA
First make sure the vacuum unit works. Factory recommended procedure is to set the timing with the vacuum unit connected to 4 degrees After Top Dead Center. Ensure the idle speed is set to 750 - 950 RPM. Adjust it up or down as needed to get 4 ATDC at the correct idle speed.

dicta dick Taylor
Downey, Callifornia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1460775 by GDL412 what degree do u set idle timing ? could someone explain to me this process? thanks garry

Garry --- To see if the vacuum retard is 'working' on your engine you can test it by removing the line to the distributor. With the engine idling, the timing should retard by as much as 15 degrees. If it's not working, you can either fix it, or set the timing to 12 deg. BTDC and plug the open line at the bottom of the rear carburetor.

The engine should be idling at or below 900 rpm, so that the distributor's centrifugal advance hasn't yet started to advance the timing.

A good repair manual is nice to have, such as the Robert Bentley, or the TR6 Operations Repair Manual. Also the original Owners Hand Book is good for general info. All available from The Roadster Factory, and other TR6 parts houses.

Dick
'73

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
If you do disable the retard...working or not, it's the steel nipple on the bottom of the rear 73 carb that needs tightly capping off.
Here's a picture with a red straw indicating the location of the nipple that supplies vacuum to the retard module on the distributor.

clifish Avatar
clifish Cliff Deger
St. James, NY, USA   USA
Ken what do you use to tightly cap off that nipple? on mine I plugged the vacuum tube leading to the carb but not on the carb itself.



74 TR6 - Carbs by POOLBOY
81 Corvette

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
You being an aquarium guy probably have some air hose that fits the nipple. Then find a screw or "BB" to plug up the end...just make sure they are tight enough to seal 20+ in-Hg vacuum.
You can also find 'vacuum caps' in most auto parts stores....Look in the "HELP" (Dorman) display.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-30 03:50 PM by poolboy.

Sapphire Avatar
Sapphire Walt P
York, PA, USA   USA
Setting Ignition Timing, Static & at Idle.
See 3 attached photos, below.

Car in neutral, ignition off, handbrake on.

First, learn to set Static Timing.

Turn crankshaft (you can grab fan, but risk breaking blade no-no; use a socket or adjustable crescent & turn alternator bolt- while pushing in on longer length of fan belt.) until the marks on your pulley are near the engine block pointer (as in photo). Rub some white chalk over the numbers, so you can see them.
Move the pulley until "10 BTDC" lines up below the straight side of the pointer (as shown roughly, (13* is actually shown) 1st photo).

Next, use a ratchet and socket to slightly loosen the slotted bolt (2nd photo)- on side of distributer- so that you can twist distributor clockwise & anti-clockwise.

Unclip the dist. cap, and set out of the way, so you can see inside dist.
Contact points should be gaped at 0.015", (fully open).
Rotor arm should be pointing to around 7 o'clock, (as shown in 3rd photo). (The #1 spark plug is firing when the rotor arm points to 7 o'clock, viewed from the left side of car.)

Turn your ignition 'On', do NOT go to 'start'.
Rotate the distributor very slightly (either direction) until you hear the 'click' of the contact points opening.

Turn off your ignition, tighten down the sloted dist bolt, so dist, no longer rotates.
Timing is now set Statically, which is a good approximation.

....................................
For Idle Timing, use the "4 ATDC" pulley mark.
Idle should be close to 900 RPM's.
Hook up your timing light (as per timing light directions) to ground & #1 spark plug wire.
Start engine, shining the light down on your chalk-marked pulley.
'4* After' top dead center should line up below the pointer. If not, loosen dist. clamp and adjust until it does line up (don't forget to tighten clamp).
....................................
There is an even better way to Vacuum Time your engine; somebody else can cover that method, if you ask.



1972 CC80594U Sapphire Blue



Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-30 05:11 PM by Sapphire.

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Sapphire Avatar
Sapphire Walt P
York, PA, USA   USA
Timing Light:
Red clip to positive battery post, black clip to ground or negative battery post, inductive clamp to #1 spark plug wire.

Thanks Dick! It has been many years since I used my old timing light- I did remember that it has clamps, just forgot how many.



1972 CC80594U Sapphire Blue



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-30 07:56 PM by Sapphire.


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GDL412 Garry Loomis
Granville, NY, USA   USA
vacuum retard does not work, still set 4 degrees ATDC for idle, still running rich ,carbs rebuilt , points gap to .015, new rotor, wires and cap seem good no cracks or frayed wires, intake manifold seems to be not leaking, rebuilt fuel pump. only low idle setting for timing the only setting, running out of options. thanks garry

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, Mississippi, USA   USA
If you are referring to the marks on the crankshaft damper to try and find the sweet spot, you're not on the correct one.
If the vacuum retard is disabled, you'd be looking for about 12* BTDC at 850-900 rpms as a starting point...Adjust the idle and mixture accordingly.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-02 10:37 AM by poolboy.

GDL412 Garry Loomis
Granville, NY, USA   USA
distributor shaft is lose, what parts i need to fix. thanks garry

dicta dick Taylor
Downey, Callifornia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1496504 by GDL412 distributor shaft is lose, what parts i need to fix. thanks garry

Garry --- If you mean that you can twist the rotor / shaft approx. 15 deg. clockwise and anti-clockwise, this is normal. But if you mean you are able to shift the rotor and its shaft sideways, then it's the two bushings that are worn. (Mostly the top one) These can be replaced, but it's not usually a store bought item as the size of these bushings are custom made with odd OD and ID. Best to leave this repair to a pro, unless you feel you can tackle this.

Dick

glcaines Avatar
glcaines Silver Member Gary Caines
Hiawassee, Georgia, USA   USA
When static timing, I find it desirable to hook up a 12 volt light bulb so that I can easily tell when the points open and close. Often it is hard to hear or see exactly when the points open or close. With a light bulb it is quite easy to tell. Set static timing at 10 deg. BTDC. Turn the distributor until the light goes out with the crank set on 10 deg. If your distributor shaft has side to side play in it, you should correct that issue prior to trying to set timing. I sent my distributor to Rob Medynski at British Vacuum Unit for a distributor rebuild and installation of a vacuum advance unit. Very good product and excellent work on my distributor. The distributor looked brand new when I received it back.



Current: 1973 TR6 W/Overdrive

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1963 TR3B W/Overdrive
1962 TR3A
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1960 TR3A

GDL412 Garry Loomis
Granville, NY, USA   USA
set timing at 12 degrees , runs pretty good. but wiggle in distributor, have to rebuild. thanks guys. also poolboy thanks for 12 degrees setting mark. thanks garry

Sapphire Avatar
Sapphire Walt P
York, PA, USA   USA
Advanced Distributors testimonials:

http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/testimonials-3/



1972 CC80594U Sapphire Blue

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