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TR6 Looking for some frame welding advice

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Mail From: (email redacted) (DUHART JOHN)

> I'm replacing the mounts, obviously, but am wondering if anyone has

> ever cut out and replaced or somehow braced rotted cross members?

> Other than these areas the frame and the rest of the car is

> surprisingly rust free. It passes the "Can I hammer a screwdriver

> through the frame?" test.



I have the same problem, and will be fixing it hopefully this summer. I
called TRF, and they have

the cross members in stock. The guy on the tech support line made it
sound simple enough to do. Does anyone have any experience in doing this
kind of work.



JHD IV





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Mail From: "Lee Daniels, (email redacted)" <(email redacted)>

>From: "Mark Manasas" <(email redacted)
>
> After lifting the body I noticed some nicely rotted cross members where the
> IRS arms mount.

This is *very* common, especially if the car ever saw salty roads. TRF sells
the crossmembers, I think for about $40 each.

> I also noticed that the two inner IRS mounts were
> cracked almost all the way through.

Also a common TR6 problem. And again, TRF sells strengthening supports to weld
in.

This car sounds like it has all the classic TR6 problems. Check the archives
for all the other common problems, you've probably got them, too! ;-)

Lee M. Daniels Laboratory for Molecular Structure and Bonding Texas A&M
(email redacted) (409) 845-3726 Fax (409) 845-9351
'74 TR6 '77 MGB



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Mail From: Glenn Franco <(email redacted)>

On Jan 2,1996 Mark Manasas wrote:

> I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a frame / welding shop in the
> Massachusetts area that is good with TR's.

Located in the Ann Arbor, Mi area I cannot recommend a welding shop but with the
right equipment and the right info the job is not that hard to do. I have done
this repair on a 71 and 74 TR6.

> I have a '72 TR6 in my garage with the body hanging from the ceiling
> and the remaining parts more or less nailed to the walls. After
> lifting the body I noticed some nicely rotted cross members where the
> IRS arms mount. I also noticed that the two inner IRS mounts were
> cracked almost all the way through. I imagine (hope) that this was
> due to the extra stress put on them by the rotting cross members.

If you are going this far I would assume you have a fair amount of both hand and
power tools before embarking on this deep of a project. Since you are from the
Northeast I would assume that their is a fair amount of body corrosion and
panels will have to be replaced or patched. I would recommend that you purchase
at the very least a 110v 130-150amp small mig welder (between $350 and $500) and
have at it. Its not that hard to learn how to weld with the new small 110v
welders on the market. You will also need basic hand tools, tape measure, drill,
and most important either an angle grinder (electric or air) or an air cut off
tool or die grinder with an adaptor. You will probably pay someone to do this
what it costs to purchase the extra stuff you need. Don't forget the TR6 Bently
shop manual and take lots of diagonal measurements.

> I'm replacing the mounts, obviously, but am wondering if anyone has
> ever cut out and replaced or somehow braced rotted cross members?
> Other than these areas the frame and the rest of the car is
> surprisingly rust free. It passes the "Can I hammer a screwdriver
> through the frame?" test.

I have done two of these and used two different approaches. The first I had
.080" steel cut and bent to provide new formations (for the lower and rear
edge/the top was solid) and seam welded them over the cleaned up rear trailing
arm crossmembers. This completely encapsulated the old section and maintained
alignment of the frame (only .080" proud of the original surface). This repair
was seam welded and is hard to tell from the original. The repair is 5 years old
(71 TR6 restoration) and was easily aligned and has been trouble free. The
repair I would recommend is cutting out and replacing these pieces. I cut them
out of my 1974 frame and purchased the crossmembers and one of the Breast plates
(cruciforms) from TRF. The upper plate was on back order and I had to repaired
it. Patience and time is needed to neatly cut out these pieces and you will
likely find more corrosion under both the cruciform plate and at the inner and
outer ends at the attachment points. Repair will most likely be necessary in
that area.

On both of these repairs I included both the TRF and Grassroots Motorsports
recommendations and reinforced the frame in the recommended areas (neatly gusset
at the outboard edges of the c/memb, rear boxing of the rear diff. attachments
and reinf. plates on the top of the rear spring and diff attachment bolts). You
will need to have these fabricated from templates that you make up. These
shouldn't cost much, I was lucky I had some good metal fabricators working for
me. I think some of these can be purchased from TRF if they are not on back
order.

The best source of written info was "TR6 Restoration" by Practical classics. I
read this after doing my first restoration and I am applying their procedures
and suggestions on my 74 TR6. Another good source is Practical Classics magazine
(these guys are tackling British rust buckets in every issue) they have many
good ideas and lots of practical info. Grassroots Motorsports (AUTO X magazine)
was restoring a TR6 back in 91 and that where I got a lot of info (they have
been drifting towards covering more rice rockets than British stuff).

> Any info regarding a shop / person who could help me, or anyone with
> any similar experience will be greatly appreciated. I'm also looking
> to do the engine, i.e. a general overhaul & mill the head to bump up
> the compression - any more recommendations?
> Thanks,
> Mark Manasas

Good Luck!

Glenn Franco

email at (email redacted) or (email redacted)

1971 TR6 (done)
1974 TR6 (waiting to be completely restored)
1976 MGB (done)
1985 Jeep Scrambler (frame off fiberglass body restoration in process)



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